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Wild Atlantic Way Part 1

John Swift • 3 July 2020

Navigating Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way one microbrewery at a time - May 2019

Wild Atlantic Way
You may have heard of Ireland's 'Wild Atlantic Way' that runs from Malin Head, County Donegal in the northwest of Ireland to Kinsale, County Cork, in the southeast. It is the name given to a 2,500km driving route as part of an initiative by the country’s tourist board, Fáilte Ireland in 2014 to attract more foreign tourism to the Atlantic west coast of Ireland. The west coast was already there of course but the campaign was hugely successful, so much so in fact that in 2018 another campaign was launched, 'Ireland's Ancient East', promoting the part of the country east of the River Shannon as they were feeling a bit left out!


Microbreweries
Another Irish phenomenon in recent years has been the 'wild' growth of the craft brewing industry. Back in the 1990s the Irish were already known for their impressive levels of beer consumption but there wasn't much on offer in the way of variety. The black stuff was available in every pub along with Smithwick's red ale plus a few lagers - but that was about it. There were a couple of early trailblazers like The Porterhouse and O'Hara's but for many years that was pretty much it. This recent article from RTE is worth a read as it explains the evolution of the market for craft beer in Ireland (so we don't have to!) 


Road Trip
So, with all this positivity we figured that the obvious and logical course of action was to take a road trip along the Wild Atlantic Way, sampling local craft brews as we went. Until recently the trip from Spain would've started with driving the length of France to either Roscoff or Cherbourg for the ferry to Ireland. However, despite all the lovely places we could've visited in France on the way we decided to go 'against the grain' (pun intended!) and avail of another recent arrival, the Santander-Cork ferry service, and get straight to work!


Kinsale
Arriving in Cork harbour (worth a few days exploration in its own right) we headed straight to the starting point of the WAW, the nearby very beautiful and very historic fishing town of Kinsale, often referred to as the "Gourmet Capital" of Ireland. It is also home to Blacks brewery though and, after all, we didn't come for the food this time. Founded in 2013 by a local couple, thanks to a Valentine's gift of a home brewing kit no less, from herself to himself! This small brewery has come on in leaps and bounds ever since and given their size they have an impressive range of seven core brews including the signature Kinsale Pale Ale (an American style pale ale), a black pale ale, a session IPA (lower in alcohol), an extra IPA (not lower in alcohol!), a double IPA (even less lower in alcohol!), an Irish stout, and a gluten-free lager. In addition they have six very interesting looking seasonal and experimental brews. As for Kinsale itself, it'd be hard to imagine a lovelier spot to appreciate the tasting session

Clonakilty

When on the WAW one has to constantly remind oneself that the entire route is full of spectacular spots in order to force oneself to leave one and head to the next. So on we travelled west (a little!) making a temporary home for ourselves in Timoleague. From our base there we explored nearby Clonakilty which was named the "Best Town in Ireland and the UK" in 2017 at The Urbanism Awards (look it up!). Once there it would've been remiss not to head into the renowned De Barra's for a pint, which we duly did. Not as long established as De Barra's is the Clonakilty Brewing Company, founded in 2016. These guys have three core beers; Tojo American Pale Ale, Smuggler Irish Porter and Inchydoney Blonde, but also produce one-off brews from time to time, particularly with a view to pairing with local food.



Baltimore

Next stop, Baltimore on Roaring Water Bay - a far prettier place than its namesake across the pond! (Have you ever seen 'The Wire'?). If one had the time, a trip out to Cape Clear and Sherkin islands would be a must but we were here for the beer, remember? In a raid on the village by Barbary pirates in 1631 almost all the villagers in this tiny port, 107 it is reckoned, were captured and sold into slavery in what is today Algeria. There's even a pub in the village called Algiers Inn - which reminds us, back to the beers! Founded in 2014, West Cork Brewing is another small brewery that offers a big selection. They have a pale ale, a rye IPA, a dark red ale, an "imperial rum and raisin red ale", a stout and even a "coffee, oatmeal & chocolate stout".



Killarney

We realised very early on this journey that we needed a lot more time! One could probably do a reasonable job of the WAW in a couple of weeks or so but adding in the craft breweries we should have allowed at least 6 months! In County Cork alone there are 8 micro-breweries (plus the big Murphy's-Heineken one in Cork city). We consoled ourselves by noting that not all are actually on the WAW and so didn't 'fall within our remit', and so on to Co. Kerry we went! The scenery in Killarney is such that one could be forgiven for believing they had landed in New Zealand, but yet it couldn't be much more Irish. The Killarney Brewing Company has a bit of an international element to it however with the head brewer hailing from New Jersey and all the brewing equipment being imported from Germany, known of course for its very exacting standards when it comes to beer. Brewing began in 2015 and their core range includes a German-style helles lager, a blonde ale, two IPAs, an Irish red ale and an extra stout. They also produce three seasonal beers.

Killorglin

At this stage we knew we'd never make it all the way to Malin Head but figured we 'might as well be hung for a sheep as for a lamb' - or a goat even - and travelled the short distance to Killorglin, home of the ancient Puck Fair where a wild goat is captured and crowned "King Puck" for three days every year in the month of August, after which time he is brought back to his mountain home and released. In 2014 Crafty Divils, a local husband and wife team, started brewing commercially after some years perfecting their art brewing at home. They produce two core beers: King Puck Irish Pale Ale and Iron Bridge Amber Ale.



Dingle

Now we were heading in the wrong direction altogether, down the Dingle Peninsula to the town of An Daingean (as it's called as Gaeilge, or Dingle in English). Most of the Dingle Peninsula lies within the Gaeltacht, which means Irish is still the language spoken here. As time goes by the Gaeilge loses a little more ground every year but back in 1899 when Dick Mack's pub opened you would have met people who had little or no English. A great example of an old dual-function Irish pub, this pub has remained in the same family since it opened. Typically pubs would often double up as the grocery store, or very often the undertaker, but in the case of Dick Mack's half of the premises is a leather shop so if you get the urge to have a new belt made while you're drinking your pint, you're in the right place!

They're characters down here in Kerry and they could probably have sold sand to the Algerian pirates who kidnapped the village in Baltimore that time! The Brewhouse building itself was originally built in 1850 but was initially used as a cowhouse and the heat from the cattle was taken advantage of to dry sheeps wool in the loft above. Crafty or what! When the pub opened the brewhouse was used for kegs and bottles but it wasn't until recently that the real crafty business began. With equipment brought in from the same German suppliers as the Killarney crowd, brewing began in 2015. Amongst their brews they have a coffee stout, an amber ale, a pale ale and a session IPA.

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Weekend in Rupit

by John Swift • 27 July 2021
Situated about 40km northwest of the city of Girona, the Collsacabra Protected Natural Area is dominated by steep crags, which along with two major reservoirs, are major attractions for lovers of the outdoors. As well as being one of the points of entry to the area, the village of Rupit has enough charm to deserve a visit even if you haven’t brought your mountain bike or walking boots. And so it was, that one Friday morning we packed up Obi for the weekend and headed for the hills. The route we took to the hills from the Costa Brava went via the village of Les Planes d'Hostoles, as the plan was to take a quick dip in one of the pools of the Riera de Cogolls, however after parking up, we saw signs advising that due to Covid, a booking was required to control the number of people at the sites at any one time. Although we didn’t think it too busy, instead of a dip we opted for a short walk nearby on the path which makes up the Catalan section of el Camino Santiago, before continuing our journey. The road into Valle d’en Bas carves through the Serrat de la Calcina mountains in a tunnel from which you emerge into a broad lush valley surrounded by imposing mountains, in contrast to the narrow valley you’ve been driving through for the previous 20 minutes. Shortly afterwards we stopped in Hostelets d’en Bas for lunch, a village that has origins going back to the 18th century with the establishment of a hostel on the Royal road between Olot and Vic. In narrow calle Teixeda, you’ll find houses with beautiful wooden balconies festooned with flowers. This street also has a number of restaurants, including the Ca L’Esteve where we enjoyed an excellent menu del dia before the heavens opened, and the friendly staff had to lend us an umbrella to make it back to where the van was parked. What seemed like a slow 30 minute drive up the mountain towards Rupit in heavy rain brought us to Camping Rupit, where we decided to sit out the showers in the bar and consider setting up camp later. The site is small, consisting of a field for tents and campers on one side of the central amenities block, with bungalows and fixed tents on the other. There is a bar/ restaurant and small shop, and on that Friday evening, we practically had the place to ourselves. Eventually the rain stopped, and we set up camp and admired the views of the surrounding hills.

Ruta del Cares

by John Swift • 22 July 2021
Having lost the opportunity to explore the Picos de Europa in 2020 due to an issue with the van seeing it sent homeward on the back of a lorry, we’ve been keen to get back and see what we’ve missed. Top of the list was the 10km path above the Cares river between Poncebos and Cain, through a gorge known as Garganta del Cares, which separates the western and cental massifs of the mountain range. History The path was originally cut into the rock to support the creation of a hydroelectric project over 100 years ago; with the canal from Cain visible along many sections of the route, before the water descends to drive the turbines of the plant at Camarmeña near where we started. Logistics We were based in Potes, which meant an hour and 10 minute drive around to the start point of the walk at Poncebos. Although the roads were quiet early in the morning, the first 25km down to Panes is very narrow and winding and whilst beautiful, is a journey you don’t want to have to make in the van if it isn’t necessary. In hindsight, we would have been better off basing ourselves in Las Arenas ahead of the walk, where there is a campsite (check) and an attractive town with bars and restaurants to explore. Another option is a free area de autocaravanna on the N621 outside Panes, but this still means a km trip to the start. Either of these would have facilitated an earlier start to the trip, which is important, because parking was a nightmare out towards Poncebos. There is parking at the funicular which goes up to Bulnes (check) but it was already full by the time we arrived (0900) with vehicle being turned around and sent back towards a car park a few kms back towards Poncebos. We managed to get the van up off the road before the car park as we were keen to avoid any unnecessary steps before we got properly stuck into the hike. The walk reportedly attracts 300,000 walkers a year, many of whom are concentrated in the summer months. Whilst this would normally put us off, I have to say it didn’t bother us too much on the day.

Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia

by John • 13 August 2020
Synonymous with the production and export of Port, the cities possess numerous historic sites, an abundance of interesting transport options, and plenty of places to eat and drink. Based on five nights in August 2020, here are our top tips to enjoy a stay in these beautiful cities. 1 Ditch the van Controversial I know for a blog on a campervan site, but the streets of Porto and Gaia Nova are unforgiving to larger vehicles and are best explored on foot. We found ample secure parking for only €6 per day at Estacion General Torres on the Gaia Nova side, only a 10-minute walk from the river. 2 Take the tram to Foz Porto has maintained three historic trams, with wooden interiors, brass fittings and ropes trailing through the interior to ring a large bell when requesting a stop. One of the routes, known as Linha 1, departs from Infante runs along the banks of the Douro River to the Passeio Alegre Park in the Foz. Take the time to watch the driver change the direction of the tram at the end of the route by swapping their seat from one end to the other, flipping the passenger seats, and swinging the electrical pickup arm, or pantograph, from front to back.

Teruel Exists!

by John • 7 July 2020
“So where are you going to stop first?” “Teruel” “Where?” “About an hour and a half north west of Valencia” “Oh” Which reinforces why the locals felt the need twenty years ago to start a movement called “Teruel Existe” to campaign for an improvement in services and infrastructure for what they felt was a forgotten part of the country. At the time the city and region were served by a single track, non-electrified railway line, and no motorways. Thankfully, things are much better today with A-roads linking the city to both Zaragoza and Valencia, and Madrid only an hour away by high speed rail line. However, despite the improved transport links, and the numerous sights and distractions in and around the city, you’ll still find surprisingly few tourists. Teruel city Many of the buildings in Teruel are fine examples of the Mudéjar style, the name given to the application of elements derived from Islamic arts to traditional European architecture. These include the Cathedral and Torre de el Salvador, and the more modern but no less ornate La Escalinata, connecting the railway station with the main part of the town.

Wild Atlantic Way Part 2

by John Swift • 3 July 2020
County Clare In order to make up for some of the lost time - or maybe a better way to describe it would be the 'extra time well spent' - we decided to take the ferry from Tarbert straight to Killimer in Co. Clare (sorry Co. Limerick!). We made a short stop in beautiful Spanish Point, so named for a number of ships of the Spanish Armada that were wrecked off the coast here in 1588, and then, even though we hadn't planned on stopping in Lahinch, we ended up "losing" more time here as we couldn't resist sampling some of the offerings from the Western Herd Brewing Company from nearby Kilclogher. Recently established by a local brother and sister team and with a master brewer brought all the way from Chicago, these guys hit the ground running with four main brews: a pale ale, a red ale, an IPA and a Belgian style witbier. The IPA in particular was one of our favourites so far! They also have a session IPA and a vanilla porter. To Hell or to Connacht! From Munster into Connacht, the "most Irish" of the four provinces. They're all Irish of course but in the mid-1600s, after yet another failed rebellion against English rule, many Irish landowners had their property confiscated during the subsequent Cromwellian Plantation and some were even shipped to the Caribbean as indentured servants. Of those who remained many were removed to west of the River Shannon as it was deemed safer by the English to keep them contained between the broad Shannon and the Atlantic ocean, thus giving rise to the expression "To Hell or to Connacht"! Today there are more Irish speakers here than in any other province and it is renowned for its traditional music scene - and, of course, its pubs!

Ypres

by John Swift • 3 July 2020
En route, road signs reminded us that our destination’s official name is the Dutch language “Ieper”, whilst the French “Ypres” is more commonly known; however we discovered whilst there, it was also known as “Wipers” by the British troops stationed there in the “Great War”, but more about that later. Fortifications around the town existed for over a thousand year, with successive occupiers and conquerors providing additional ramparts and moats to protect its strategic position. For a large part of World War 1, Ypres was surrounded by German forces on three sides, from where it was heavily bombarded resulting in extensive destruction. Camping Jeugdstadion The municipality run Camping Jeugdstadion is perfectly situated to enjoy Ypres and the surrounding area. On foot it’s only 5 minutes to the city walls, 15 mins to both the Menin Gate, and the Grote Markt, the central square with its famous Cloth Hall. The site is well equipped with two amenity blocks, recycling and electricity and water points, a field for camping, cabins for rent and a hardened grass area for campervans and caravans. We used one of the additional concrete plots for campers and mobile homes, where their website states that awnings aren’t allowed, however the super friendly staff were very chilled about us putting ours out onto the adjacent grass area. It is possible to hire bikes from the site, and whilst slightly better rates may have been available elsewhere in the city, the convenience was hard to beat. Menin Gate and last post ceremony Between 1914 and 1918, hundreds of thousands of men marched through the Menin Gate on their way to the battlefields. The location was therefore chosen as one of the four sites to commemorate members of the Commonwealth forces with no known grave. The grand arch of the gate and its surrounding structure are covered in stone slabs, into which are carved the names of over 54,000 men. Shortly after the memorial was inaugurated in 1928, the buglers of the local Fire Brigade played the Last Post as an expression of gratitude by Belgian nation towards those who had died. The tradition continues to this day, and can be seen every evening at 8pm. People start to gather from 7pm, and traffic is stopped around 30 minutes later, so I’d recommend getting there early enough to gather within the arches of the gate itself to fully appreciate this moving and atmospheric event. The night we were there included wreath laying by UK veterans and schoolkids, and bagpipe music from a very nervous teenage piper who we found ourselves offering words of calm and reassurance to whilst waiting for the ceremony to start. He didn’t have to worry as he was fantastic. Grote Markt The central square known as the Grote Markt is surrounded by shops, restaurants and the Cloth Hall, which is also home to the In Flanders Fields museum. The museum provides displays explaining how the battles unfolded around the city, how soldiers lived in the trenches, and capturing the scale and senselessness of the loss of life. Although a difficult subject matter, this museum is a must during any visit to Ypres.

Rock Werchter

by John Swift • 30 June 2019
Just outside Leuven, the Belgian village of Werchter has hosted a music festival every year since 1976.
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